Emporio makes you work a little bit, like many of the old villages on the island. Firstly, you have to get past what you see when you go whizzing through it on a quad bike. You have to realise that isn’t it. You have to park, find the sign for the traditional village and follow it until you see the hand written sign for ‘castle’. You may have to ask some locals on the way, check you are going in the right direction. Once on track, you have to go looking for its colours (which you will mostly find on doors). You have to climb its steps and get lost in its narrow, winding paths to find the eccentric cafe with fresh strawberry ice cream. You have to get lost in the remains of its big castle, a castle that people now live in behind those coloured doors.
Of course, working hard for it makes the discovery of true, old, traditional Emporio all the more worth it.