Startled & Suspicious

I used to think Germans behaved strangely in the sun (their manner suspicious, vaguely panicky, a little startled) for the fundamental reason they see very little of it (except for those living in the country’s sunniest city, Freiburg). But living up North these past few months, I have added a second prong to my theorising about the Germans and weather. I now suspect they behave the way they do because one can never be sure, when the sun does eventually come out, whether it will last for 30 seconds, three minutes or three hours and whether, when it disappears, it will be seen again for days or, possibly, weeks.

At the moment, we are edging tremulously into summer. Sort of. There’s no rush here, we don’t want to over-commit too soon. We have had a couple of blindingly beautiful days upon which all and sundry have fired up their mini-grills and grilled mountains of sausages and turkey breasts and pork steaks, occupying every square metre of every public park in the city. And we have had some splendid afternoons that last until 9pm, lighting the entire apartment so it feels like 3pm for hours. But mostly we have had days that cover the entire spectrum of weather possibilities, sometimes within fifteen minutes; rain, wind, hail, sun, dense cloud cover, big, blue skies.

P1010516

As a consequence, I have adopted the necessary behaviour to deal with this; that is to say, I behave in a suspicious manner when the clouds start to thin (could the sun be coming out?) a little startled when it becomes apparent the sun will come out (but it was just hailing?) and in vaguely panicky manner when the sun arrives (holy shit, I am not in a place I can sunbathe, I need to get to a park and/or bench and/or Strandkorb). Mid-panic, I peel off any unnecessary layers and run outside, power walking/jogging until I find an unoccupied bench – not easy when most are taken up by working bees doing the same panic-Vitamin D-bath that I am, their stockinged legs glinting in the sun. And there I sit, face tipped to the sun, like a real German, until the clouds roll in again.

P1010623

It’s precisely what I did yesterday, a day which for all intents and purposes was a cool, cloudy one when I set out for work in the morning. Come 1pm, I had a break and, strolling downstairs and outside, it began to spit. So I sought cover in H&M and then wandered back to work, dodging little bullets of rain. I had been back at work with my book for about fifteen minutes when the sun came out. Clocking the cloud cover, it was evident the sunny period was going to last longer than half and hour, so I sprinted to the park, past the working bees with their glinting stockings and warm-looking suits and to an empty bench right up the back. There I sat, smearing myself in the sun’s vitamins, soaking in all of its goodness. The sun lasted until I got home, at which point I lay prone on the couch underneath the window, until the clouds came and stole the light. That night a huge storm rolled in and this morning as I am pondering what to wear to work, the sky is still spitting, with slithers of blue peering through.

What I’m saying is, now I get it Germans. I get it.

The Wind Up

The thing with trying new things, or finding homeless puppies, or living in new cities, is you get attached. You get attached and you don’t want to give these new things back, or you want to take the puppy home, or you want to stay somewhere a little longer than you’re allowed. First comes the little pinch as you realise something has to and soon will, end. Then comes the rip, the walk-away. And it stings every single time, no matter how calloused your skin or how conditioned your mind for departure.

Life is starting to give us the wind-up hand here in Kiel. Of the six months it allocated us in SG’s home city, three and a half are up. That leaves us with two and a half. It will, as is time’s habit, disappear overnight. It will snap, like an elastic band, shrink to smaller proportions in a sip of wine, over the course of a sunny afternoon spent with friends and family; one busy, work-filled week will deliver us to the final handful of days, the goodbye drinks, the taping up of boxes, the turning onto the autobahn with take away coffees and a 7 hour drive ahead. The hand that seems leisurely now, will soon be the one pushing us down the autobahn, back to Bavaria, back to another allotment of time that will itself, before long, wind up and shrivel to the approximate size and shape of a collection of memories. Just like Kiel has done. And Sydney and Münster and everything else before it.

So it’s time to gear up again. There has been a lot of gearing up over the past 3 years, a lot of winding up and moving on. And the easiest rip of them all was the first one, when I had everything in front of me and the vague assumption that, when ready, I would simply return to the home I was leaving behind and it would be easy. After that, it just got harder because as we get older, we get heavier, weighted to the ground by all we have collected and assumed, by all we have put down, those roots tucked into the earth and less flexible, less supple, less willing to be pulled up time and time again. And you only need the first time to learn how tired gearing up, moving out and moving in, settling down – all of those phrasal verbs associated with newness, with change, with motion – makes you. And the second time. And the third time.

That’s not to say a little part of me likes the gear up, needs the gear up. I have become accustomed to it, since life began sorting itself out into distinct increments of time, post Münster. Six months in Weiden. Six months in Sydney. Six months in Kiel. Twelve more months in Weiden until the next location gets fixed. These allotments of time have all had rhythms of their own, rhythms I recognise as they play out and tempo changes I feel the moment they occur. The gear up, the move, the settling, the new normal, wind up, the gear up, the move.

The tempo has changed. I can feel it. We’re settled, but we’re starting to brace. Those roots have to come back up again. The wind up has begun.

The Novelty of Spring

The novelty of Spring refuses to wear off. The handful of truly glorious days we have had since Spring announced her arrival, have been enough to replenish stocks of good cheer and tide us through the inevitable cloudier, rainier days. A boot has not graced my foot in a fortnight. The Germans are slowly stopping staring at my ballet flats (and thus half-naked feet) but I won’t be cracking out the sparkly gold ones for a while, that was almost too much. Never have my feet been such a point of public interest. I asked SG the other day, why Germans stare so. And he said, ‘Us Germs have a set of norms that we like. And step out of that norm even a little bit and we stare.’ Das stimmt.

The big, beautiful street off which we reside, has burst into song, all the trees heavy with green. People sitting beneath them with their coffees and beers are no longer shivering beneath felt blankets, instead they are sitting jacket-less with their faces following the sun. Naked trees are a part of winter I have never liked. Glühwein I can do. Snow for a week or two, sure. But those black, bare sticks reaching toward a white sky, I have never been able to fall for. Most available patches of green in parks are dotted with chairs, blankets and grills. The national past time of raiding Edeka for all available types of meat and throwing them on a mini grill, is in full swing. And ice-cream. Ice-cream is back on the streets, clutched by every second Kieler.

But, perhaps most significantly, people are happy. They’re smiling at each other, there’s a sense of renewed energy in all public spaces. There are no hunched shoulders, no chins dipped into scarves, no hurrying down the street to get out of the cold. People stroll, shoulders open, faces open. There is no rush, no being driven into warmer spaces because the warmer spaces are all outside and every available moment is to be spent there. No one celebrates the sun more than those who don’t see it enough.

We went to Laboe last weekend. Last time I was there, in April last year, it looked like this. This time, it was blue and sunny and the Strandkörbe were full of people. The queue to the ice cream shop snaked out the door. We waited patiently for our two scoops and then took them to the pier.

No, the novelty of Spring will never wear off.

laboeedit2

laboeedit4

laboeedit

laboeedit3

 

Language Battle

Most of the time here, I can crack out my German in shops and cafes and restaurants with aplomb, or in social settings, engage in a monolingual conversation that makes me feel both smug (look at me go) and embarrassed (did I just murder a case?) at the same time, a sensation peculiar to learning and speaking a foreign language … or is that just me. But there are other occasions were something else happens and it’s usually in a bar and usually with bright young things who grew up with American pop culture squawking loudly in one ear and an English teacher in the other, from around the age of six. On these occasions, the conversation becomes bilingual, but in reverse. Allow me to elaborate.

The other night, I met an English speaking colleague at a wine bar for a Friday night drink. When the time came to order, I became locked in a common stand off wherein I, the English speaker, spoke German and the German speaking waiter spoke English. Neither of us backed down. He wanted to practice his English and I wanted to practice my German, so the both of us defiantly assaulted the other’s ears with our thickly accented second languages.

‘Hallo, ich hatte gerne ein Sauvignon Blanc.’

‘No problem. Would you like something to eat?’

‘Nein danke, aber vielleicht später.’

‘Sure! I’ll just get your wine.’

‘Dankeschön.’

And so on, so forth. Neither of us giving up, no one backing down. Me secretly thinking, ‘come on mate, throw me a bone. I am in the zone, I am about to sup the magic Language Enabler, after which I will be even more in the zone. Give me German.’ And him quite clearly thinking, ‘bäm, a native speaker with whom to practice English!’ And then me, thinking further, ‘I need this, don’t deny me.’ He will, over the course of the evening, pay exceptional attention to our table and we will continue our bilingual interaction until the final, slurred, ‘danke, tschüüüüüüüs.’

It happens a lot. I embark upon a German conversation with a German colleague, only to have it come back in English. (Indeed the lengthiest, most rewarding conversations I have in German are often with my English speaking colleagues, in which we tramp all over the grammar but delight in responding to the same language.) Or I have a sip of wine, find myself next to a German keen to work on their English and (due to the wine sip) confidently slip into my German only to be met with a wall of English. And so we crash on, me mixing up my articles and cases, them using the Present Perfect almost exclusively and doing wild things with countable and uncountable nouns. Neither of us willing to acquiesce, both determined to inch forward in our linguistic progress.

And at the close of conversation – battle – both of us stagger away, bruised and bloodied, our ears ringing from the destruction of two glorious languages that the two of us just partook in, but our linguistic match fitness just that little bit boosted. We tape our muscles with grammar exercises and Two and a Half Men (mine dubbed, theirs’ original version) and wait for the next round.

The German Hamptons

For a long time, I have been hearing murmurs of an island with sand so white, it’s blinding. Of an island where wealth abounds, of an endless stretch of beach-baskets, lapped by the North Sea. Sylt, the people whispered, Sylt. 

Others told me it was a snobby haven of tax evaders, ridiculously expensive and there are spots as nice as Sylt on the North Sea, minus the pretension.

The train took 2.5 hours and we waved at Denmark as we made our way across the (what is essentially) marsh that separates Sylt from mainland Germany. At high tide, the island is clearly an island, surrounded by delicious blue sea. At low tide it is all but visibly connected to the mainland.

Behold:

Sylt

The weather could not have behaved in a more fitting manner. There was, for the first time in many, many months, not a cloud in the sky. The breeze was gentle. Locals and tourists filled the cafes’ outdoor seating areas, their chairs turned in rows as if having an audience with the sun. There were a lot of ice creams and refreshing beverages going on. The strand-korb we paid 8 euro for the pleasure using (after paying 3.50€ for the pleasure of entering the beach … a concept utterly foreign to an Australian) trapped the heat of the sun with pleasing efficiency, creating a warm little nest in which we could sunbathe. Which we did until our pale winter skin went pink.

When we left the beach, bound for ice cream sundaes of considerable size, we put our feet in the North Sea. Not as cold as expected by flipping freezing. And, if truth be told, a little magical.

syltedit7

syltedit5

syltedit4

syltedit3

syltedit6 syltedit2

syltedit1

Sultanahmet and Surrounds

Our hotel was bang smack in the middle of Sultanahmet, the ancient jewel in Istanbul’s oft-fought for crown. We were a mere five minute’s trot from the Basilica Cisterns, the National Archaeological Museum, the Mosaic Museum and Grand Bazaar. Every morning we ate our breakfast with the spires of Agia Sophia and the Blue Mosque inspecting our plates and of an evening, if we felt up to the spruiking, we’d have a raki and water pipe somewhere on or around the popular, bar and restaurant-filled Akbıyık street. We were a train ride away from the Galata Tower, Istiklal Street with its millions of shoppers, and the ship-filled, oily, inky Bosporus.

To wit, our traipsings around Sultanahmet and its surrounds, in pictures.

sulta4

sulta2

sulta11

sulta8

sulta9

sulta1

sulta6

sulta12

sulta3

sulta14

sulta7

sulta13

sulta10

sulta5

 

And so ends Documenting Istanbul. What a week, what a wonderful week. Catch up here on food, a puppy and an island.

Big City

Like any huge city, Istanbul is a place of extremes. Extreme beauty and its very opposite. Extravagant wealth and visible poverty. Its sheer size and sprawl accommodates the gamut of humanity, and indeed its sheer age has done the same.

And like with any huge city, sometimes it gets too much. All of it. The noise, the people, the constant state of action. The rubbish, the haggling, the begging, the mangy animals – not every street animal is lucky enough to score a food sponsor in the form of a restaurant – picking through bins.

Five days into our week in Istanbul, I hit a wall. It was a Sunday and most things were closed, so we hopped on the tram and caught it out to Topkapi station, where you can see the remains of the huge, ancient Walls of Constantinople. From a distance, the walls are sensational. Imposing, even in the places they’re crumbling.

wall

Up close, there is rubbish everywhere, trodden on and added to so as to form thick, matted carpets of plastic bags and cans and wrappers and old shoes. Walking up some narrow stairs, I saw a litter of puppies, just a week old, huddling. Nearby two lay dead, one from a broken neck, the other from who knows. We tramped on a little further, past clusters of men loitering and smoking behind the wall, the matted carpet of trash underfoot, until quite literally and indeed metaphorically, I hit a wall.

So I retreated. Back in our sliver-in-the-wall hotel, in the quiet emptiness of the lounge room, I sat by window with my notebook and watched Istanbul do its thing outside.

window

And I wrote:

Istanbul has beaten me today. The noise, the people, the dirt, the crush. Perhaps it was the puppies, one week old and curled around each other for warmth, two siblings already dead. Then the clambering around this big old wall that was once a city’s border and is now a dumping ground for human shit, literally human shit.

We went for tea and baklava afterwards, the waiter gave me a napkin rose. Both of us had exhausted the ‘can we take a puppy home’ discussion on the train, until it stopped being about the puppy and just became about being tired.

puppy1

puppy2

But it’s all part of it. The wonder, the awe, the energy, the fatigue, the confrontation, the processing, the overwhelming sense of how vast, how varied this world is. All big cities have dead puppies and matted carpets of rubbish. Picking through the shit is part of the parcel. And sometimes, most of the time, you can’t take the puppy home.